12V supply for camera
Submitted: Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 15:55
ThreadID:
27955
Views:
2508
Replies:
13
FollowUps:
21
This Thread has been Archived
Casnat
Can the electronics guru's amongst you provide some advice please.
I have just received a small camera I bought on ebay which I want to set up as a reversing camera in the Patrol (already have the
monitor). The manufacturer recommends using the 240V adaptor which is supplied with the camera but of course I want to hopefully wire it into the cars 12V power supply.
I unashamedly admit that I know "diddly squat" about electrics and don't want to fry the camera. The specs state the working voltage is between 6V and 12V but state that it must not exceed 12V. Power consumption is listed at 200MW but I suspect that might be a typo (not uncommon with Asian booklets) It states that current cannot exceed 250MA.
If I wire the camera to the cars electrics am I safely within these ranges? I know the
battery is 12V but is there a chance of it being higher? If there are potential problems can anyone recommend how they be overcome, perhaps by putting something in the line?
Thanks in advance
Trevor
Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 16:03
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 16:03
I think I'd be using a cheap, small inverter, just to be on the safe side.
AnswerID:
138665
Follow Up By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 16:22
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 16:22
I was hoping not to have to do this if I can avoid it. Even a cheap inverter will cost me more than the camera did.
The camera was only $49 (incl postage). I have hooked it up to the
monitor using the 240V adaptor and it looks like it will do the job fine (subject to sorting out the power supply issue).
FollowupID:
392364
Reply By: Member - Geoff M (Newcastle) - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 16:22
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 16:22
You could go to Jaycar and look for a regulated 12v power supply.
What that does is takes in from say 10 to 20v DC and guarantee's an output of 12v DC.
Your can when running may exceed 14volts depending on its age, voltage regulator setup etc.
Geoff.
| Geoff,
Landcruiser HDJ78,
Grey hair is hereditary, you get it from children. Baldness is caused by watching the Wallabies.
Lifetime Member
My Profile My Blog Send Message |
AnswerID:
138668
Reply By: Sea-Dog - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 16:56
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 16:56
I am by no means a guru here but if it says to use a regulated 12 volt supply I would think the cars voltage would be fine as it is..... it will run at around the 14 volt mark when charging and wouldn't really spike much above that for any amount of time...
I think that it would be fine but if you wanted to take the $50 gamble to try it out that is up to you..... personally if it says that it runs on a DC 12v current then I would hook it up and see what happens but that is just me and it wouldn't be the first thing I have fried by playing around with things I know bugger all about...
Do a bit more research on the camera on the web through the manufacturer and maybe send them an email and see what the response is.
Cheers
AnswerID:
138671
Reply By: John L G - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:02
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:02
Trevor,
Although you state the working voltage range is between 6 - 12 volts for the unit is it specifically a 12 v unit or not?
Methinks because of that range it is more likely a 9 volt unit so if you wire it direct to your vehicle which will often get to 14 volts, a fried camera will be the result. The fact they state a max voltage of 12 volts would set of a few warning bells for me.
Ordinarily a 12v device of most sorts will tolerate up to 15 v which provides a bit of a safety net for most most power supplies.
I stay posted
John G.
AnswerID:
138676
Follow Up By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:10
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:10
Hi
John,
the specs state the following:
"Power Source: +6VCD-+12VCD" (I'm sure "CD" should read "DC")
You can see the specs at ebay item 7558126505 (just put this number in the search)
You are probably right about the 9V.The sticker on the AC adaptor shows 9V 500mA
Trevor
FollowupID:
392382
Follow Up By: John L G - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:20
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:20
Trevor,
Well there's your answer.
Now to find a nine volt supply as suggested below and you are cooking.
Just make sure you
check which is +ve and -ve when you wire it up.
Have fun.
John G
FollowupID:
392385
Reply By: Tim HJ61 (WA) - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:10
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:10
Trevor,
Geoff M
Newcastle is on the money. Go to the Jaycar site and enter MP3014 as the cat number in search.
Quoting:
The converter plugs into a cigarette lighter socket and will bring any voltage in the 12-24V DC range down to 1.5, 3.5, 4.5, 5, 6, 9, 12V at 1000mA, fully regulated.
Close quote.
I'd suggest you set it to 9v, being half way between the two parameters the instructions give you. The convertor will allow 1A so can
well cater for your camera drain.
To complicate issues, does the adaptor you are using convert it to DC, or does it keep it at AC? The Jaycar will only output DC. If the camera requires AC, then the inverter will be the way to go. You'll find other things to use an invertor for;
battery chargers, compact flouro lights etc.
Regard
Tim
AnswerID:
138678
Follow Up By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:14
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:14
Hi Tim,
definitely DC so will look into the Jaycar site.
thanks
Trevor
FollowupID:
392384
Reply By: VK3CAT - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:46
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:46
Hi Trevor. this is a suggestion if you are handy with a soldering iron.
Use a 3 terminal voltage regulator in a T0220 package such as a 7808 (8 volt), 7809 (9 volt), 7812 (12 volt). Mount it with heat sink compound to ground (Terminal 4 - case is a common / ground connection, same as the centre terminal #2)
#1 terminal is the input & #3 terminal is the positive output - keep these sleeved or insulated. Ideally the regulator would be mounted in a plastic box or similar for protection. A suitable fuse on the input - say 500mA is required. These regulated are good up to about 1 amp & are available from Jaycar & the likes for probably less than $1.00
The specs given are a bit confusing.
Power in watts = Volts X Amps in a DC circuit.
200mW = 12 volts X 160mA, or
1500mW= 6 volts X 250mA. Worst case is that you will
cook the regulator.
Cheers Tony
AnswerID:
138683
Follow Up By: Casnat - Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 19:57
Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 19:57
Hi Tony,
thanks for your help. I bought a 7809 today together with associated connectors etc and a 500mA fuse. The soldering iron will come out tomorrow.
Perhaps you (or others) could give advice on a couple of other issues.
I have a little plastic box that the regulator can go in (actually the little box that the fuses came in). I am wondering about ventilation? Should I drill a few ventilation holes?
Jaycar sold me some cable for the video feed and I am wondering (jeeze I feel like an idiot having to ask) how to connect the plugs. The plugs obviously have an outer and an inner connection. The wire I was sold (and I am not sure it is the right stuff but you would assume they know more than me) has a copper wire "outer sheath" and two core insulated wires (red and white). Can you advise whether I have the right wire and how it needs to be connected?
Thanks again
Trevor
FollowupID:
392613
Reply By: Peter 2 - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:48
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:48
Another solution is to use a 12v line fliter/ voltage regulator which are vavilable from stereo manufacturers (Pioneer make one) which provide a clean regualted supply.
I've fitted them to run CB's etc when electrical noise is a problem.
AnswerID:
138685
Reply By: hoyks - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:53
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 18:53
How about some thin wire or better still, a variable resistor of some sort so that you get a deliberate voltage drop to around 9V
AnswerID:
138690
Follow Up By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 21:09
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 21:09
VERY sonud advice , not ..... LOL
FollowupID:
392449
Follow Up By: hoyks - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 21:16
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 21:16
why not? worked on a
battery charger I had.
FollowupID:
392456
Follow Up By: V8troopie - Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 01:05
Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 01:05
Why not hoyks? Because its a CRUDE, repeat crude cheap and nasty way to get a lousy resulting voltage drop. You might remember that the voltage drop across a resistor is entirely dependent on the current flowing through that resistor, meaning if that load current changes the output voltage will also change. And it can change a LOT, hence my crude comment.
Not a method I would want to try.
sorry to knock your idea, even if you had success (luck more likely) with it.
Klaus
FollowupID:
392512
Follow Up By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 09:47
Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 09:47
Actually I was mostly refering to the idea of using ' thinner wire ' , follow this advice for your very own under bonnet / dash fire.
FollowupID:
392538
Reply By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 20:34
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 20:34
Thanks everyone for your help. Clearly the direction I need to look is towards a voltage regulator to give 9V output.
I will be hard wiring the camera in so do not need something that plugs into a cigarette lighter etc. I did some googling research and found something on the dick smith site .... Cat No. K3594. Trying a link for the 1st time, sorry if it doesn't work... voltage adaptor kit
Do you think that might do the job?
Thanks
Trevor
AnswerID:
138704
Follow Up By: Ian from Thermoguard Instruments - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:21
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:21
Hi Trevor,
The Dick Smith kit you mention would be ideal for your camera. But, do you realise it's a kit of electronic components that you have to assemble with a soldering iron, after correctly identifying which bit is which?
I've been doing this sort of stuff for 30-odd years, so I'd be happy to supply you with a fully assembled module for $20 plus postage. Please 'click' on my logo and send me a direct email if you what more info.
Ian
FollowupID:
392480
Follow Up By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:40
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:40
Hi Ian,
after I posted the link (and as my 1st one got a bit of a buz that it actually worked!) I did come to the realisation that it did actually involve building from components. Whilst initially threatening it takes me back to my high school tech electronics days.
I may take you up on your offer but need to look into other options at this stage. I need to compare your offer to Jaycars (MP3014) $25 which may have other applications apart from the one being considered.
I will email you direct if needed
Trevor
FollowupID:
392487
Follow Up By: Ian from Thermoguard Instruments - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 23:00
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 23:00
No worries Trevor. If you can get what you need from Jaycar fully assembled for $25, I'd go for it. By the way, don't need an EGT gauge do you??...
FollowupID:
392495
Follow Up By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 23:06
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 23:06
not a diesel sorry. You probably need to be a little less subtle in your marketing techniques (LOL)
All jokes aside I will email you if I need assistance
FollowupID:
392498
Reply By: angler - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 21:14
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 21:14
Mine has been running on 12 Volt direct from the radio hot wire since I put it in service. No probs yet. Incidently the supplied 9V supply is closer to 12 V than 9 V when measured.
A sinple 3 volt Zener in series will drop the voltage to 9V just use one thats capable of handling the power dissipation. 3V X 0.25A = 0.75 watts. Go much higher for free air if you don't use a heatsink.
AnswerID:
138715
Follow Up By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 21:56
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 21:56
Hi Angler,
when you say "mine has been...." do you have the same camera as I have? (ie: did you look at the one I purchased on ebay and have the same?)
Trevor
FollowupID:
392472
Follow Up By: angler - Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 18:59
Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 18:59
I didn't check , but after I did, yep its perzactly the same one. You will find it doesn't like large changes in brightness and the screen will require adjustmen on occassion. Also the camera puts a purple (magenta) tinge on the screen when
bright sunlight is almost above the camera. I had to put mine back inside the patrol a bit to keep it out of direct sun to stop the problem.
FollowupID:
392606
Follow Up By: Casnat - Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 19:48
Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 19:48
Thanks Angler,
I'd be interested in exactly where you have yours mounted. At the present I am considering one of the two trim "buttons" in the top corners at each side of the back window (plan to drill out a bigger hole in the camera mounting bracket and push back the trim button with the bracket under it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Trevor
FollowupID:
392611
Follow Up By: angler - Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 20:04
Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 20:04
I will put some on my web site tomorrow. Check it out sometime in the after noon.
www.bycompass.com
and go to the "of interest" page
FollowupID:
392616
Reply By: techie - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:38
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:38
VK3CAT has the best idea in my opinion.
Easy to wire up, cheap to buy the parts, and safer than attaching to the car
battery.
The 9Volt is regulated so the signal from the camera would be stable, and at 8 - 9 volts the unit will dissipate less power so will not get hot.
Dick smith/jaycar/ tandy sell the 7805 regulator, only a couple of bucks, cheap insur.
Anyone in the local neighbourhood with electronic knowledge could do it in 10mins - if you were in
Sydney, I would do it.
worse comes to worse, email me on donk@techie.com and see if we can organise something.
Donk
AnswerID:
138731
Follow Up By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 23:31
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 23:31
Thanks Techie,
learning lots as we go.....plan to visit the likes of DSE and Jaycar tomorrow to suss out what is needed. Sounds like $20 or less may gain me what I need which is a budget I can handle.
I am amazed that before my post I knew almost nothing, now I feel confident going into stores asking for info on particular issues. Thanks all for your responses
Cheers Trevor
FollowupID:
392502
Follow Up By: V8troopie - Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 00:58
Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 00:58
The 7805 regulator is only 5V, it might need some 'tweaking '. why not use a regulator with a higher output techie?
Trevor, while you are ad dick smith get a hold of their catalogue and in the back pages are precise instructions on how to hook up a regulator. Its really not difficult, I do it all the time :-) - my car has quite a few of them to power various gadgets. The sales person at DS should be able to help you get the few other parts you need to hook up the regulator.
Personally I prefer the LM317T regulator, its adjustable, not like the fixed voltage output ones suggested above.
Klaus
FollowupID:
392511
Reply By: Eric Experience. - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:55
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:55
Trevor.
Most homes have a colection of old phone chargers, if you find one thats 9 volts you will have a supply already made up. Eric.
AnswerID:
138734
Follow Up By: Casnat - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:58
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 22:58
aren't these all 240V chargers though?
FollowupID:
392491
Follow Up By: Eric Experience. - Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 23:05
Wednesday, Nov 09, 2005 at 23:05
Trevor.
Sorry mate I should have said, in car charger. Eric.
FollowupID:
392497
Reply By: techie - Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 23:39
Thursday, Nov 10, 2005 at 23:39
Troopie has the right idea. lm317 the way to go.
If there is a cct in back of DSE catledog even better.
One hint. Connect a lightbulb as the load until the voltage is correct - cheaper to replace than a camera.
Techie.
AnswerID:
138898